Bulgarian combustion chambers with water jacket for installation made entirely of 5mm hot rolled steel.
Energy efficiency (Class A) of Regulation (EU) 2015/1186.
The design and installation of a local heating system with a combustion chamber for installation, follows a few specific steps:
1. Determining and calculating the area to be heated and the required power of the water jacket and radiators;
2. Preparation of the design of the installation and determination of the type - closed or open system;
3. Selection and description of the connections and types of pipelines and their section;
4.Demo test - filling, bleeding and sample of the water installation;
If a larger area (more than one floor) is required, a closed pressurized system is recommended as losses are smaller and fluid transfer is more efficient.
The type of fuel to be used must be specified in advance as this determines the device to be installed. For example: fireplaces with metal combustion chambers are not suitable for burning coal, because burning coal produces a high temperature and a large amount of burns. The water jacket itself consumes a great deal of heat and does not produce good combustion of coal. When choosing a fireplace, especially with a built-in combustion chamber, we recommend burning mostly dry wood - oak, beech, poplar.
Calculating the power of the camera depends on the size, type and insulation of the home. The standard for a fully renovated and insulated dwelling with a height of 2.5- 2.7m. , the heating capacity of one square meter of area is 150 W. If the dwelling is not insulated, and with old not properly sealed windows, this power is 210 W / sq. m.
Power calculation for 1m3:
- for fully renovated and isolated dwelling - 60W
- the dwelling is not isolated - 80W
In partially isolated dwellings an average value of about 180 W / m2 is assumed.
When buying radiators, it is advisable to round up the required power for a given room, because when put into operation, it can anyway adjust and reduce their power through a thermostatic valve. This ensures that there is no power shortage. It is useful to keep in mind that radiators have different rated outputs, with the "sales" usually at 20 ° C ambient temperature and 90 ° C inlet and 70 ° C outlet water. In other circumstances, it is usually different.
Radiators can be either panel (steel) or aluminum, cast iron or convector. Convector heaters are more efficient because they take away heat from the fluid very quickly. They are equipped with air filters and automation. However, this results in changes in the parameters of the whole system, because the pump must be not only circulating but also pumping.
Additionally, a 5-10% advance or so-called "passive power" is foreseen in order not to use the water jacket at maximum power. The installation must take into account the nominal - real power of the fireplace. The following is the preparation of the project and inventory, calculation of the materials. For maximum efficiency and warranty, the use of quality multi-layer pipes from approved manufacturers is recommended. The same applies to fittings. This would reduce the likelihood of repeated system drainage and other potential accidents - overheating or boiling. When purchasing pipes, it must be borne in mind that the collector that feeds the entire system must be 1 inch in diameter. As for nearby radiators they connect with smaller diameters (for example 16mm), and the route to longer ones with larger ones - 20mm. It all depends on the length of the tracks. The section is determined by the rule - what power the pipe can carry to the radiator, namely:
Ф16- to 3500 W
F20 - up to 5500 W
It must be known that the pipe coming out of the combustion chamber is 1 inch metal, copper or steel, so that it may not soften and deform in the event of overheating. Galvanized pipes are not suitable because the interaction of zinc with the fluid enhances the corrosion of unprotected metal parts.
This is the step where you have to decide what fluid to use. The possibilities are:
- Water - when used permanently, because it does not have to be drained frequently. Frequent drainage is not recommended, as after a few hours work the water is "killed", contains less oxygen and reduces the corrosion of the water jacket and radiators.
- Antifreeze - for less frequent use. It may be ordinary automotive antifreeze, ethylene glycol or propylene glycol. The first is highly poisonous and strongly not recommended in a home setting. The second (propylene glycol) is very slightly poisonous and is what you need. However, its price is higher. The dilution, approximately, and according to data from a group of Soviet scientists, is 50:50 for temperatures up to minus 25-30 ° C, the concentrate freezes and gels at -75 ° C. Usually a ratio of 2: 1 or 60:40 is chosen in favor of antifreeze. The use of propylene glycol except that it has the advantage of not freezing the installation
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